If you're stuck on the trail or just doing routine maintenance in the garage, a can am commander belt removal is one of those skills every owner eventually needs to master. There's nothing quite like that sinking feeling when you hear a weird chirp or smell burning rubber while you're out in the woods. Whether your belt finally gave up the ghost or you're just checking things out before a big trip, getting to the CVT and swapping that belt isn't as scary as it looks.
The Commander is a workhorse, but like any CVT-driven machine, the belt is the weak link by design. It's meant to be the "fuse" in your drivetrain so you don't snap an axle or blow a differential when things get hairy. Let's walk through how to get that old belt out without losing your mind—or your knuckles.
Getting Your Tools Ready
Before you start ripping things apart, make sure you have what you need within arm's reach. There is nothing more annoying than being halfway through a job and realizing your 13mm socket is across the shop.
You're going to need a few basic things. First off, get a socket set—specifically a 13mm and an 8mm. You'll also want a flathead screwdriver or a nut driver for the hose clamps on the CVT intake and exhaust ducts. Most importantly, you need the belt spreader tool that (hopefully) came in your factory tool kit. If you bought your Commander used and it's missing, it's basically just an M8 x 1.25 bolt. You can grab one at any hardware store, and it'll save your life.
It's also a good idea to have some compressed air and some brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol handy. When belts fail, they don't usually go quietly. They tend to leave behind a mess of "belt hair" and black dust that needs to be cleaned out if you want the next belt to last.
Clearing the Way to the CVT Cover
On the Can-Am Commander, the CVT is tucked away behind the passenger seat area (depending on your specific year and model). For most older generations, you're going to start by sliding the passenger seat out of the way or removing it entirely to give yourself some breathing room.
Once the seat is out, you'll see the plastic interior panels. You'll need to pop those out. Don't go hulking on the plastic; find the push pins and remove them properly. If you break them, your plastics will rattle forever, and that's a headache nobody wants. After the panels are off, you should see the black plastic CVT cover.
Check the area for mud and rocks. If you've been riding hard, there's probably a mountain of dirt sitting right on top of the cover. Brush it off or blow it away before you open it up. You really don't want a stray pebble falling into your clutches while you're working.
Removing the CVT Cover
Now comes the fun part: the bolts. There are about a dozen 8mm bolts holding that cover on. Some of them are easy to reach, and others are tucked behind the frame rails in places that seem designed to test your patience. A flexible extension or a small 1/4-inch drive ratchet will be your best friend here.
As you take the bolts out, keep track of them. They aren't all the same length in some models, so keeping a mental note (or a physical one) of where the long ones go will save you time later. Once the bolts are out, you might have to wiggle the cover past the footwell or the frame. It's a tight squeeze, but it'll come out.
If the cover feels stuck, double-check that you didn't miss a bolt at the very bottom. It's easy to overlook one when it's covered in grease and dirt. Once it's loose, pull the cover away and inspect the inside. If you see a "bird's nest" of black string, well, you definitely found your problem.
The Actual Belt Removal Process
With the clutches exposed, you'll see the primary clutch (the one toward the front) and the secondary clutch (the big one toward the rear). To perform a can am commander belt removal, you need to open up the secondary clutch to create some slack.
Take that spreader tool or your M8 bolt and find the threaded hole on the face of the secondary clutch. Screw it in by hand first to make sure you aren't cross-threading it, then use a wrench to tighten it down. As you tighten the bolt, it pushes the sheaves of the secondary clutch apart.
Once the sheaves open up, the belt will drop down into the clutch, giving you a ton of slack. Now, you can simply grab the belt and walk it off the top of the secondary clutch. If it's snapped into a million pieces, just reach in and pull out all the debris. Make sure you check the intake and exhaust snorkels for chunks of rubber, too. If those get clogged, your new belt will overheat and snap in record time.
Cleaning and Inspection
Don't just throw a new belt on and call it a day. That's a rookie mistake. Take a minute to look at the clutch faces (the sheaves). They should be smooth and shiny, but not "mirrored." If they look glazed or have black rubber deposits burnt onto them, take some Scotch-Brite or very fine emery cloth and lightly scuff them. You want a nice, clean surface for the new belt to grab onto.
Use that compressed air to blow out all the dust from both clutches. Wear a mask for this—trust me, you don't want to breathe in CVT dust. After blowing it out, wipe down the sheaves with a clean rag and some isopropyl alcohol. You want to remove any oil or grease. Even the oils from your skin can cause a belt to slip if you aren't careful.
Check the rollers and the weights while you're in there. If anything looks flat-spotted or broken, now is the time to fix it. A healthy belt can't save a dying clutch.
Installing the New Belt
When you're ready to put the new one on, check the direction of the belt. Most belts have arrows on them. You want those arrows pointing toward the front of the vehicle (the direction of rotation). If there are no arrows, a good rule of thumb is to install it so you can read the brand lettering on the belt.
Loop the belt over the primary clutch first, then work it over the top of the secondary. Since you still have the spreader bolt in, it should slide right on. Once it's seated, start backing out that spreader bolt. As the sheaves close back together, the belt will rise to the top of the clutch.
Give the secondary clutch a few spins by hand to let the belt seat itself properly. This ensures everything is aligned before you fire up the engine.
Wrapping Things Up
Put the CVT cover back on, making sure the gasket is seated correctly in its groove. If the gasket is pinched or torn, water will get in the next time you hit a puddle, and your belt will slip instantly. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure.
Reinstall your interior panels and the seat, and you're basically done. But wait! Don't go out and do a full-throttle drag race just yet. New belts need a break-in period. Usually, the first 20 or 30 miles should be driven at varying speeds without pinning the throttle. This allows the belt to heat cycle and "set" its shape to the clutches.
Mastering the can am commander belt removal is a rite of passage. Once you've done it a couple of times, you'll be able to swap one out on the side of a trail in twenty minutes flat. It's all about having the right tools and not rushing the cleaning process. Stay on top of it, and your Commander will keep ripping through the trails without a hitch.